bmw-tech-digest           Wednesday, 20 March 1996      Volume 01 : Number 005
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Grinding Valves. Re: R100GS shock Smoking starter switch Re: Smoking starter switch Re: BMW: Smoking starter switch Fwd: Shock Rebuilds R90/6 Question Re: R90/6 Question Re: R90/6 Question R1100 fuel injection/surging/fixes -- part 4 BMW: Tech: K Fuel Tank Filler Seal Re: BMW: Tech: K Fuel Tank Filler Seal FW: R1100 fuel injection/surging/fixes -- part 1 Re: BMW: Tech: K Fuel Tank Filler Seal FW: R1100 fuel injection/surging/fixes -- part 2
From: set@mt.luth.se (Sven-Erik Tiberg) Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 10:11:58 +0100 Subject: Grinding Valves. Hi. I'v been silent on this list, but some of you know me from the IBMWR-list. I'm riding a -77 R100RS with 4-valve krausser heads. My Q are; The heads has been on for 50k and it's time to inspect them. They are similar to the R11 heads, so maybee some of you R11 riders could help me on this. How wide are or should the contact ring between the valves and the seats been. Whats the max. value. Would also appreciate ohter specs. as angels for valves and seats. And toleranse on the valve guides. - --- Greetings --- *********************************************** * Sven-Erik Tiberg -78 R100RS/4V * * email set@mt.luth.se Loc. 65.57N 22.22E * PGP Public key; on request. * * phone +46 920 91218 55190 and 55542 ( home) * * fax +46 920 91047, 920 55190 ( fax home ). * * Adr. Frejagatan 6 S-97437 LULEA / SWEDEN * * http://www.luth.se/depts/mt/ene/staff/set/beemers/ *********************************************** ------------------------------ From: dstephens (dstephens) Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 06:40:47 -0500 Subject: Re: R100GS shock Bill...........give Eurotech a call..... 1-800-845-4022. They are extremelly helpfull and maybe able to find you a good used shock or rebuild your current one. I needed a shock in Mexico and they sold me one for $75. If you brake down and decided to buy a new one, do not buy an EMI. I bought one and it buckled on me, literally. The central stem bent like a piece of wire. I would recommend not buying it from Capital Cycle as well, as they have refused to refund my money ($385) claiming I wrecked the bike. Good luck. Dan Stephens DC ------------------------------ From: "Malcolm A. Meyn" <tmeyn> Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 09:50:30 -0700 (MST) Subject: Smoking starter switch I love the smell of smoking electrics in the morning. Last week the mounting of the original voltage regulator on my '76 R90S broke and, as the unit is over 20 years old, I decided to replace it with the NAPA VR-503 recommeded by others on the list. As described, the unit is a perfect fit with respect to both mounting and the plug harness. I got it mounted and went for about a 10 mile ride. According to the voltmeter, all was normal. Later in the day I went for a shorter ride, again all things appeared to be normal. This all happened yesterday (Sunday). Flash to this morning. Insert and turn key, press starter switch, listen to typical starter noised with no catching of the motor. Notice smoke coming out of the starter switch and the headlight shell. Feel sinking feeling in pit of stomach. Pop off headlight and notice the Green/Blue wire insulation leading from the key switch is just about melted away. Hitch ride to work from wife. Now, how deep into it am I? What would cause this? I suspect that the addition of the VR-503 is merely corrolary. Any chance it could cause this? How much of my electrics can I expect to be fried? What is the best way to go about fixing this? I remember someone else on the list experiencing a similar problem with the addition of some new coils. Any replies that were sent to this person would be appreciated. Thanks, Tony Meyn '76 R90S Smokin' Silver Smoke ------------------------------ From: roger (Roger Albert) Date: Mon, 18 Mar 96 12:19:59 CST Subject: Re: Smoking starter switch Hi Tony, > I love the smell of smoking electrics in the morning. Better than a cup-O-joe eh? Sorry to hear of your troubles. > Now, how deep into it am I? What would cause this? I suspect that the > addition of the VR-503 is merely corrolary. I agree, probably coincidence. > Any chance it could cause this? Not likely, being as it worked for a while. That generally rules out misconnection. > How much of my electrics can I expect to be fried? What is the > best way to go about fixing this? I don't know how comfortable you are with VOMs etc (though it sounds like you're quite comfy with them), but, I always do a visual for charred/distorted/bubbly things first. I haven't done much electrical on my Rbike yet so I can't say much right off. You mentioned the wire leading to the key switch. A good candidate might be a short to ground in the switch body itself. I'll look over my schematics tonight and see if anything else comes to mind. Also look for chafing against the frame or tank on the harness. Always possible something was shifted and took a few short rides before it wore through. Once again though, without having a diagram in front of me -- if I had to make a WILD guess, I'd say check that switch. Thats the part that moved between you last ride, (when things were working) and this mornings pyrotechnics. Best of luck and I'll post back tonight or tomorrow if anything obvious comes to mind. On another note; I intend to replace my breather nlt Friday (day off) I never could find your writeup on the breather valve replacement. Do you happen to have an old ascii version lying around? I'm sure I can wing it if need be, but, why not learn from others if you can. TIA and good luck with the electrics. Some time in the next year I should become much more familiar with them as I build up another R90, basically from scratch. Should be both fun and occasionally frustrating. later roger ------------------------------ From: BMWDUCMAN Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 17:10:36 -0500 Subject: Re: BMW: Smoking starter switch Your problem sounds the same as mine. The starter button smoked and I fried the wire from the condensor to the points (and the points). I still can't figure out how this happened, but I still suspect that I pinched one of the large positive cables that run along the frame tube under the fuel tank. When you replaced the fuel tank, did you notice a snug fit? I may have also pinced something with the coils and or coil mounting bolts. If it makes you feel better, nothing in the charging system was damaged. Diode board and everything related to electrons is just fine. I lucked out. I hope you did too. If you get a definative answer on what/how/why this happened, please let me know. I am still after to instal the $54.00 in parts I bought. ------------------------------ From: Fetoid Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 10:47:59 -0500 Subject: Fwd: Shock Rebuilds Bill: Give Lindemann Engineering a call at 408.371.6151 for fax at 408.371.4915. They specialize in sport bike suspension rebuilds, but I think they also will do yours. Write back if you have any questions or need the address. ********************* fetoid@aol.com Lodi, CA R1100GS, BMWMOA #65254 BMWRA #20240 W-M #01-1840 http://www.wal-mart.com "Let's make sure history never forgets the name, Enterprise." -Picard, Yesterday's Enterprise ********************** - --------------------- Forwarded message: From: bjohns (Bill Johnson) Sender: owner-bmw-tech To: bmw-tech CC: BMW-GS Date: 96-03-18 03:11:10 EST Does anyone know of any individual or firm that can rebuild the rear shock of a R100GS. These things are $400 +, and we need to find a little cheaper solution. I am not the owner of this bike, but relaying the message for a friend. Please any help will be appreciated. Bill PS. This is a gas filled shock. ------------------------------ From: nimi (Nathan Ives) Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 17:20:58 -0800 Subject: R90/6 Question >Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 14:44:05 -0800 >To:davet >From:nimi (Nathan Ives) >Subject:R90/6 Question > >Hello, > > > My name is Nathan Ives. I am a little new with using these mailing >lists and am a little unsure of how to direct technical questions. Any help >you can offer would be greatly appreciated. > Here is my situation. I recently purchased a 1976 R90/6 with a bad >crankshaft. Having rebuilt a number of car engines, I figured a BMW engine >would be a breeze. Needless to say I spent three painful months of large sums >of money, hydraulic presses, skinned knuckles, and gear pullers. Much to my >suprise though, it runs quite well. The problem I am having is that it has a >vibration between about 3800rpm and 4500rpm. It vibrates in neutral at a >standstill as well as on the road. I have synchronized the carbs with a >mercury synchronizer, spent countless hours checking for loose bolts, and have >taken the front of the engine down to the timing chain to no avail. I had the >engine balanced when I rebuilt it (but not the flywheel). My only thought is >that maybe it is something with the clutch. One other thing it does is at an >idle, if I pull in the clutch it puts a light strain on the engine, lowering >the rpm by about 200-300. I'm pretty desperate and will try anything short of >a new engine. > Any new suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance. > > -nathan ****************************************************************************** "....as long as people know when the bus is leaving and where it is going." -Bret Goldhorn **************************************************************************** ** ------------------------------ From: roger (Roger Albert) Date: Tue, 19 Mar 96 13:26:56 CST Subject: Re: R90/6 Question Hi Nathan and all, Nathan wrote: > engine balanced when I rebuilt it (but not the flywheel). Though you'll probably think "what kind of idiot does roger think I am" I guess one has to ask the obvious: Is the flywheel properly oriented on the crank? The manuals are very specific in advising that the flywheel goes back on the crank exactly as it came off lest you end up with anywhere from mild to severe vibration. Did you swap cranks or repair yours? I'm not personally sure exactly what the entire list of parts is that you're keeping in balance by being sure to put the flywheel on as it came off, but I would think that any change in the crank or flywheel couldn't help but affect this. Comments from anyone else? Since the manuals are say to be so strict on flywheel, wouldn't one have to balance the parts as a whole to include the flywheel? I've always wondered how that worked for folk that have their flywheels lightened. I'd love someone to set me straight even if you're/we're supposed to be helping Nathan. While I'm horning in, I'd be curious about the clutch loading the engine as Nathan mentions below. I notice that sometimes too Normal? > >I had the > >engine balanced when I rebuilt it (but not the flywheel). My only thought is > >that maybe it is something with the clutch. I'm not sure, I hope someone with more definitive knowledge than me will chime in here. I don't see how the clutch itself could cause problems only at certain rpms, but the pressure plate is also so to be replaced in its original orientation, much like the flywheel. > >One other thing it does is at an > >idle, if I pull in the clutch it puts a light strain on the engine, lowering > >the rpm by about 2-300. I'm pretty desperate and will try anything short of > >a new engine. > >Any new suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance. > > > > -nathan > > > > ****************************************************************************** > > "....as long as people know when the bus is leaving and where it is going." > > -Bret Goldhorn > > **************************************************************************** > ** > > > ------------------------------ From: nimi (Nathan Ives) Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 12:26:40 -0800 Subject: Re: R90/6 Question Roger wrote: > engine balanced when I rebuilt it (but not the flywheel). Though you'll probably think "what kind of idiot does roger think I am" I guess one has to ask the obvious: Is the flywheel properly oriented on the crank? The manuals are very specific in advising that the flywheel goes back on the crank exactly as it came off lest you end up with anywhere from mild to severe vibration. Did you swap cranks or repair yours? I'm not personally sure exactly what the entire list of parts is that you're keeping in balance by being sure to put the flywheel on as it came off, but I would think that any change in the crank or flywheel couldn't help but affect this. Comments from anyone else? Since the manuals are say to be so strict on flywheel, wouldn't one have to balance the parts as a whole to include the flywheel? I've always wondered how that worked for folk that have their flywheels lightened. I'd love someone to set me straight even if you're/we're supposed to be helping Nathan. While I'm horning in, I'd be curious about the clutch loading the engine as Nathan mentions below. I notice that sometimes too Normal? > >I had the > >engine balanced when I rebuilt it (but not the flywheel). My only thought is > >that maybe it is something with the clutch. I'm not sure, I hope someone with more definitive knowledge than me will chime in here. I don't see how the clutch itself could cause problems only at certain rpms, but the pressure plate is also so to be replaced in its original orientation, much like the flywheel. That's a very good point. I replaced the crank with a used one. I had it checked out and installed all standard size bearings. I did not pay attention to the alignment of the crank and flywheel when I replaced it. What about the timing marks? If I shifted the flywheel, would that not throw them off? Thanks for your help Roger I'll let you know as I find out more. -nathan ****************************************************************************** "....as long as people know when the bus is leaving and where it is going." -Bret Goldhorn **************************************************************************** ** ------------------------------ From: Rob Lentini <lentini> Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 05:00:44 -0700 Subject: R1100 fuel injection/surging/fixes -- part 4 =09 Part 4 of a (maybe) 4 part series: Here's how to put together the preceeding three part experience I have = had with my R1100RS. Please note that I did all my experimenting on my = bike, an R1100RS--not a GS with different engine compression and cam = timing. In review, you need to be SURE that ANY driveability problems are NOT a = result of a fault in the Motronic system. To be SURE, have your dealer = read and correct any faults he detects. Your WARRANTY covers this, as = do EPA and DOT regulations. =20 Assuming a clean bill of health, CONSIDER the following mods: 1. Advanced Ignition Timing (similar to my K75 article on the web) 2. Valve Lash Increase 3. Super-Accurate Throttle Body Synch 1. Advanced Ignition Timing:=20 Most manufacturers set the ignition timing for the typical vehicle with = poor fuel quality in mind. Performance gains may be achieved by = REASONABLE increases in initial advance. The R1100 is no exception. Assuming you are NOT experiencing ANY pinging or detonation, you can = easily advance the ignition timing by about 3 degrees. Here's how to do = it: - Remove the small rubber cover on the clutch bellhousing (just inside = the right throttle body). - Remove the black cover on the front of the engine. This covers the = alternator drive pulleys/belt. - Notice on the lower (crankshaft) pulley that the three timing plate = securing screw are exposed, and that the timing plate (which the Hall = transmitters are mounted on) can slide CW and CCW in three slotted = holes. - Put the tranny in 5th gear and, while observing the flywheel with a = good flashlight, move the rear wheel to rotate the engine. You will be = looking for "OT" (top dead center), "Z" (full advance) and "S" (the 6 = degree initial advance mark). - Warm the engine and observe, with a timing light, where initial = advance is taking place. With the engine at 1000 RPM or less, the = advance will be very close to "S". Turn off the motor, loosen the three = screws holding the Hall transmitter plate, and tap the plate in a CCW = nd mercury balance by opening each brass bypass screw to get correct = (balanced and ~1100 RPM) final settings. - - Reset throttle cable free play at .5 mm. Well, that' it. Except for: 1. K&N air filter and... 2. Dow Corning Gear Gard "M" in the tranny and final drive to increase = shifting ease (just ask Roger Austin: raustin). This stuff = is available in quart bottles at bearing stores. Mix 3-5% by volume in = tranny, final drive, and for others, fork oil. Shifting and fork oil = "stiction" essentially do away. Enjoy your 'R'. There's sooo much potential, but it's up to you. =20 Robert J. (Rob) Lentini ARCC MSF BMWMOA BMWRA AMA 2509 S. Sahuara Ave. Tucson, AZ 85711 (520) 790-8865 '94 R1100RS '87 K75S (sold, NOT forgotten!) ------------------------------ From: steveb Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 07:39:21 -0800 Subject: BMW: Tech: K Fuel Tank Filler Seal ... must be springtime again! Once again I am noticing venting past the seals on my fuel tank cap when the engine/weather is warm. The tank vent will function when the pressure gets high enough, but it seems like the cap can't hold sufficient pressure anymore. I rebuilt the cap last spring, and now it's leaking again. Does anybody else find that they have to replace the seals on the tanks of their K-bikes every year? Could it be that the vent valve is requiring too high a pressure? Thanks In Advance for any advice or other input! Steve Buchholz s_buchho San Jose, CA (USA) '92 k1 (K1DRBAR) ------------------------------ From: Brian Curry <bmwbrian> Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 12:29:44 -0500 Subject: Re: BMW: Tech: K Fuel Tank Filler Seal At 07:39 AM 3/20/96 -0800, steveb wrote: >... must be springtime again! Once again I am noticing venting past the >seals on my fuel tank cap when the engine/weather is warm. The tank vent >will function when the pressure gets high enough, but it seems like the cap >can't hold sufficient pressure anymore. I rebuilt the cap last spring, and >now it's leaking again. Does anybody else find that they have to replace >the seals on the tanks of their K-bikes every year? Could it be that the >vent valve is requiring too high a pressure? Steve- Something is amok. I recently took my cap off and out of the tank and did a good job looking at how the plumbing is set up. The tank has four penetrations. One is the pump outlet line. This is pressurized. The second is the excess fuel return line. This is at tank pressure. You can see it coming up from the front when you remove the cap. If you run the bike you can see the excess fuel streaming out and back to the tank volume. The third is the cap upper drain that passes _through_ the tank. The inlet originates on the left side of the cap and is the little hole on the left that can be seen when the cap is opened. The fourth and last is the tank vent. It lives (the opening) right behind the cap at the top of the tank. It vents to the outside world. This prevents the tank from building up a head of pressure. It sounds like this is plugged for some reason. The third and fourth are supposed to puke into a little plastic funnel on the right side frame rail under the tank towards the rear. On some models this was routed to the crankcase. This allows the crankcase oil to be diluted with gas. :( On mine it is not. My bike, which you have seen, has never had the cap seals replaced. I know the tank vent is open because if I accelerate hard away from the gas station after a fill, I can smell the gas puking out the vent line as the gas sloshes to the rear of the tank. (There still is a little kid in me. :) ) If it went to the crankcase, this could be a real expensive practice. :( :( Hope this helps. Brian Curry, 1990 Blue K75RTs both coasts, Chester Springs, PA, USA K-Whiner #21, BOOF #38, OSP #7 BMWMOA#4578, BMWRA#12296, AMA#725653, USCA#078, PE-029523-E, N3IYL IDN-A force for good in the world. All of the good, none of the bad. ------------------------------ From: Rob Lentini <lentini> Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 17:52:05 -0700 Subject: FW: R1100 fuel injection/surging/fixes -- part 1 Many of you have justifyable complained about my posts. I "think" I = have the software fixed. I know you will let me know. :) - ---------- > > From: Rob Lentini[SMTP:lentini] > Sent: Thursday, March 14, 1996 5:49 PM > To: 'r1100 list'; 'ibmwr'; 'Jon Diaz'; 'Jim Roche'; 'Mick McKinnon' > Subject: R1100 fuel injection/surging/fixes -- part 1 Part 1 of a two or more part series: Alright! I'm a newcomer to the "R" world. I used to have an '87 K75S. = Many of you know me as somewhat of a prolific "K-Speak" poster. = But...now I've had a '94 R1100RS since early Dec of last year ('95), and = I've done LOTS of experimentation to improve my knowledge of Motronic = 2.2MA injection and how it affects "driveability". This, and = subsequent, posts are for your information. What I will be sharing with = you is for you to evaluate, comment on, and perhaps inplement. Other = ideas are welcomed! When I had my K75S, I noticed MANY, MANY posts and letters to Internet = lists from riders who were experiencing "driveability" problems with = their new R's--namely surging, as I understand it, in the lower gears = within the 2500-3500 rpm range. I did not pay too much attention to it = until I bought my "almost" new R early in December of '95. This bike (with all updates) as purchased, came with a Staintune = non-catalyst exhaust system, "cat code" plug removed, fuel vapor = cannister/solenoid removed, oxygen sensor removed, and the "famed" = Carbon Monoxide (CO) adjustment potentiometer installed. As received, = the bike ran great, but did not return acceptable fuel consumption--in = the neighborhood of 39 mpg. From this, I was determined (and I still = am) to learn as much about Motronic fuel injection as I could to improve = all possible parameters. FYI, the CO pot WILL NOT fix everything. Read = on.... I'm now going to paraphrase to you how Motronic sensor inputs are = describied in the BMW manual as affecting R1100 engine performance and = managment: The Motronic receives the most important input signals from the = Hall-effect triggers (engine speed and TDC) and from the throttle = butterfly position sensor (throttle opening angle). The amount of air = drawn in is calculated from the throttle opening angle and engine speed. = Precise data are determined with the aid of the air NTC (intake air = temperature), and oil NTC (engine temperature). CO values on the = special version with three-way catalytic converter are performed by the = oxygen sensor. The things to remember here are that the most important Motronic inputs = are 1) engine speed, 2) TDC (top dead center, for ignition timing = reference) and, 3) throttle opening position. But, there's more... Many of you have heard about "Cat Code" plugs, and how many have = achieved driveability improvements by removing this plug...but what is = it? It's a "map". You say: "What is a map"? Well, think of the Gulf War "cruise" = missles. They had a "map" electronically installed to compare stored = data to what they were overflying on the way to their targets. Motronic = is much the same way. The R1100RS/GS series has six (6) different maps = available in the later series control units to "custom tailor" = parameters to meet emission/country-specific specs. No less than five = (5) cat code plugs are specified for R1100RS/GS configurations! Each = one is distinctly different in emissions, performance, and driveability. = =20 This is becoming a long post, so I'm going to close it here. Rest = assured, I'm going to share with you some controlled experiments with = many parameters, all of which include the different maps, PLUS changes = I've made in my R1100RS that may benefit YOU. More to come tomorrow! Robert J. (Rob) Lentini ARCC MSF BMWMOA BMWRA AMA 2509 S. Sahuara Ave. Tucson, AZ 85711 (520) 790-8865 '94 R1100RS '87 K75S (sold, NOT forgotten!) ------------------------------ From: Rick Landi <RLandiCOM.COM> Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 16:54:32 -0800 Subject: Re: BMW: Tech: K Fuel Tank Filler Seal At 07:39 AM 3/20/96 -0800, steveb wrote: >... must be springtime again! Once again I am noticing venting past the >seals on my fuel tank cap when the engine/weather is warm. The tank vent >will function when the pressure gets high enough, but it seems like the cap >can't hold sufficient pressure anymore. I rebuilt the cap last spring, and >now it's leaking again. Does anybody else find that they have to replace >the seals on the tanks of their K-bikes every year? Could it be that the >vent valve is requiring too high a pressure? > >Thanks In Advance for any advice or other input! >Steve Buchholz >s_buchho >San Jose, CA (USA) >'92 k1 (K1DRBAR) > Hi Steve, More likely that your vent tube is plugged/pinched. There should be no pressure in the tank at all. Check as soon as possible. - ------------------------------------------------------------- Rick Landi AMA #120621 Orlando, FL and wherever Presidents go BMWMOA #71199 '87 K100LT T-Mia #5 **April Fools Rally March 29-31, Clermont, FL** ------------------------------ From: Rob Lentini <lentini> Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 17:54:13 -0700 Subject: FW: R1100 fuel injection/surging/fixes -- part 2 Again, I "think" I've got this thing fixed! :) - ---------- > > From: Rob Lentini[SMTP:lentini] > Sent: Friday, March 15, 1996 6:34 PM > To: 'r1100 list'; 'bmw tech'; 'ibmwr'; 'jon diaz'; 'jim roche'; 'mick = mckinnon' > Subject: R1100 fuel injection/surging/fixes -- part 2 Part 2 of a two or more part series: Recalling my report on Motronic input sensors and imbedded "mapping", = here's what I've learned about Motronic stuff. Of course, for those = with more knowledge than me, I will stand corrected. =20 Point 1): Some of you have been pulling the cat code plug (CCP) to see = if your bike runs better. What are you REALLY doing? - By removing the CCP, you are installing the "R1100RS without cat = map". This is MUCH richer than with the CCP installed, and LIKELY will = damage your catalytic converter. - By removing this CCP, you are defaulting the Motronic control unit to = "CO pot installed". Since you have not (presumeably) installed the pot, = Motronic defaults to a "presumed" 1.8% CO mixture. - Prove it: If you bring your bike to your dealer, and have them read = fault codes, "1111" will be read, indicating a bad (not installed!) CO = pot. BY THE WAY: ANY changes you make in the previously mentioned Motronic sensors = "could" trip a fault code. To BE SURE the faults are reset, and to = assure lingering faults DO NOT cloud what you are attempting to achieve, = YOU MUST remove and reinstall fuse #5 "Motronic" to clear the volatile = fault memory! Do this EVERY time you change a variable. So now, pulling the CCP is NOT the way to go, assuming of course that = you are still running the stock catalytic converter/muffler. DON'T pull = the CCP! I measured CO readings that go from 0-2% CO (with CCP) to 6-8% = (without CCP). This will KILL your converter. If you don't care, the = cost is yours -- to both the environment and your fuel consumption. Some = states, like AZ (mine), have emissions testing. Think about this! Point 2): If you have an aftermarket system installed, like my Staintune, your = - - UNRIDEABLE! Conclusions: - - Config #1 is best for performance, has high emissions, increases fuel = consumption (O2 sensor seems ignored or overpowered--no closed loop) and = will probably damage a catalytic converter. Use only with non-cat = exhaust system. - - Config #2 is very close the #1 in performance, has some surging, low = emissions, better fuel consumption, and will work with or without a = converter. - - No other CCP configuration will work acceptably in an R1100RS. It = would be interesting to observe the performance of an R1100GS with RS = mapping. - - The CO pot, if installed with a "with cat CCP", is ignored. YOUR = money is wasted! - - If the CCP is removed, and the CO pot is not installed, the "1111" CO = pot fault is set, and the Motronic control unit defaults to 1.8% CO = value. - - It is IMPERATIVE when making ANY Motronic changes to clear faults by = removing and then reinstalling fuse #5, and to be safe, fuse #6. Next up.... Throttle position sensor (TPS)--will readjustment fix anything? Other = performance "tips"? Stay tuned. Robert J. (Rob) Lentini ARCC MSF BMWMOA BMWRA AMA 2509 S. Sahuara Ave. Tucson, AZ 85711 (520) 790-8865 '94 R1100RS '87 K75S (sold, NOT forgotten) Robert J. (Rob) Lentini ARCC MSF BMWMOA BMWRA AMA 2509 S. Sahuara Ave. Tucson, AZ 85711 (520) 790-8865 '94 R1100RS '87 K75S (sold, NOT forgotten!) ------------------------------ End of bmw-tech-digest V1 #5 **************************** Back to the top of this digest | To the next digest
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